Let’s be honest, the first time you see a photo of what some people call a “Bosguana,” your jaw probably drops. You’re looking at a snake that seems woven from liquid copper, emerald, or burnt orange, coiled gracefully on a branch like a living jewel. It’s breathtaking. In online forums and pet trade circles, the name “Bosguana” pops up, often surrounded by both awe and a hint of mystery. If you’ve found yourself here, you’re likely smitten and wondering if one of these stunning creatures could be your next pet.
Well, I’ve been in reptile husbandry for over fifteen years, and I need to tell you something upfront. The snake you’re admiring—most commonly known as the Suriname Boa, Garden Tree Boa, or scientifically as Corallus hortulanus—is one of the most beautiful and one of the most misunderstood snakes in the hobby. That “Bosguana” name? It’s likely a mashed-up bit of pet trade slang, possibly from “Boa” and “Suriname.” It points to a specific, heart-stoppingly pretty animal, but the label can cause confusion. Today, I want to walk you through everything about keeping this snake, not just the glamorous photos, but the real, day-to-day reality. This isn’t a pet for everyone, but for the right person, it can be an unparalleled window into the natural world.
So, What Exactly Are We Talking About?
When you search for “Bosguana,” you’re almost certainly landing on the Amazon Tree Boa or Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulanus). Native to South America across the Amazon basin and, yes, Suriname, this is an arboreal boa. That means it lives its life almost entirely in the trees. It’s not a massive, heavy-bodied snake like a Burmese python; it’s slender, muscular, and built for grasping. The “Garden Tree Boa” name is a bit of a misnomer, in my opinion—it makes them sound common, when they are anything but.
The first thing that grabs you is their insane variation. This species comes in what we call “phases.” The “garden phase” tends to be more subdued—think grays, browns, and tans, perfect for blending into bark. But it’s the “colored phase” that fuels the obsession and the “Bosguana” allure. We’re talking vivid yellows, deep reds, stark oranges, and creamy whites, often with dramatic contrasting patterns. I remember visiting a reputable breeder and seeing a specimen nicknamed “Sunfire.” It was a radiant, almost neon orange that no photograph could justly capture. That’s the magic—and the market. A specific, stunning color morph might be traded under a fancy name, which sometimes gets blurred into terms like Bosguana.
The Temperament Talk: Setting Expectations
Here is the single most important part of this entire guide, and I’m not going to sugarcoat it. The Suriname Boa has a reputation. In many care sheets, you’ll see words like “defensive,” “nippy,” or “unpredictable.” Having worked with a few over the years, I find those terms a little unfair. They’re not evil; they’re just extremely high-strung and perceptive.
Think of it from their perspective. In the wild, they are nocturnal ambush predators. Their survival depends on reacting with lightning speed to anything that brushes their tree—be it a curious monkey or their next meal. They don’t have the luxury of deciding if something is a threat. This instinct is baked deep into their DNA. Your moving hand approaching from above can trigger that same primal response: a lightning-fast strike.
I recall helping a friend who was convinced his new “Bosguana” would calm down. It was a stunning red-colored phase animal. For months, it remained what we jokingly called a “coiled spring.” Opening the enclosure door resulted in an immediate S-coil and a focused stare. This isn’t aggression in the mammalian sense; it’s pure, unadulterated self-defense. They rarely “tame down” in the way a corn snake or ball python does. Some individuals may become more tolerant with incredibly slow, deliberate, and infrequent handling, but they will almost always be a “look, don’t touch” pet. If you dream of casually draping a snake around your neck while you watch TV, this is not the species for you. They are display animals, living sculptures of incredible natural engineering.
Building a Sky-High Home: The Enclosure is Everything
Since handling will be minimal, your creativity and effort go into their home. This is where you can make a real difference in their wellbeing. The key word is vertical. A standard, long reptile tank is a prison for a tree boa. They need height—much more than you might think.
For an adult, I recommend an enclosure at least 24 inches deep, 24 inches wide, and 36 inches tall as an absolute minimum. Bigger is always better. The front-opening style is best, as reaching in from above will scare them. Now, fill that space. You need multiple sturdy branches arranged at different angles and heights, reaching all the way to the top. They love to perch right under the heat source. Use real or artificial vines to create a network of pathways. Provide secure, snug hiding spots up high; a flat cork bark slab secured vertically or a commercial “tree boa hide” works wonders.
Climate control is non-negotiable. They need a temperature gradient: a basking spot of about 84-88°F (29-31°C) at the top of their branches, cooling to around 75-78°F (24-26°C) at the bottom. An overhead ceramic heat emitter or radiant heat panel is ideal, as under-tank heaters do nothing for an animal that never touches the floor.
But the real make-or-break factor is humidity. These are rainforest snakes. Aim for 70-80% humidity at all times. This is harder than it sounds. It requires a large water bowl, regular misting (an automatic misting system is a lifesaver), and possibly a humidifier. The substrate should hold moisture—I’ve had success with a mix of coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark. Poor humidity leads to catastrophic dehydration and horrific, stuck sheds where the skin comes off in patches, which can constrict their toes and tail tip. I learned this the hard way early on with a different species; watching an animal struggle through a bad shed is a gut-wrenching lesson you only need once.
Dinner Time: The Art of Feeding an Ambush Predator
Feeding a Suriname Boa is a unique dance. In the wild, they dangle from a branch, wait, and strike. We can replicate this to make mealtime less stressful. Offer appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents. The prey item should be no wider than the snake’s widest part.
The best method I’ve found is to use long, soft-tipped feeding tongs. Gently warm the rodent with hot water, dry it slightly, and present it to the snake while it’s perched. Dangle and wiggle it near the snake’s face, mimicking live movement. Often, they will strike and constrict from their perch, sometimes even coiling and holding the prey in mid-air—a fascinating behavior to witness. Never, ever feed them with your bare hands. Their strike is so fast and focused that a feeding response mistake is highly likely.
Adults typically eat every 10-14 days. Juveniles can be fed every 7-10 days. Watch for a rounded bulge in their belly; you don’t want to see a distinct lump for days. Overfeeding is a common mistake that leads to obesity, especially in a sedentary animal.
Staying Healthy: Reading the Signs
A well-kept Suriname Boa can live 15-20 years in captivity. Their health hinges on the environment you create. Beyond stuck sheds from low humidity, be vigilant for Respiratory Infections (RIs). If the humidity is too high and the ventilation is poor, or if temperatures drop too low, you might hear wheezing or see mucus around the nostrils. This requires an immediate vet visit.
Another humidity-related issue is scale rot, which appears as rusty, blister-like scales on the belly if the substrate is perpetually wet and filthy. Keep the enclosure clean, spot-clean waste immediately, and ensure it’s humid, not swampy. Always, always have a qualified reptile veterinarian lined up before you even bring the animal home. These are not beginner snakes, and having expert help is crucial.
Is the “Bosguana” Right For You?
After all this, you might be wondering why anyone would keep such a demanding, handle-shy animal. It’s a fair question. The reward is not in cuddling. The reward is in stewardship. It’s in creating a perfect slice of rainforest in your home and observing one of nature’s most efficient predators thrive. Watching them navigate their branches with prehensile grace, seeing the subtle shift in their color between day and night, and knowing you are providing for such a specialized creature—that’s the fulfillment.
If you are a beginner, I would strongly encourage you to start with a more forgiving species. A corn snake, king snake, or ball python will teach you the fundamentals of husbandry without the high-stakes challenge. If you are an experienced keeper looking for a captivating display animal and you have the patience, resources, and respect for their nature, then the journey with a Suriname Boa—”Bosguana,” or whatever we call it—can be incredibly profound. Just go in with your eyes wide open, to both their beauty and their needs.
Conclusion
The world of the “Bosguana,” or Suriname/Garden Tree Boa, is one of dazzling beauty and significant responsibility. Their breathtaking colors and arboreal elegance are unmatched, but they demand a keeper who respects their defensive instincts and can meticulously maintain their specialized environmental needs. They are not pets for handling, but rather for experienced enthusiasts who find joy in expert-level husbandry and quiet observation. Success with this species is a true badge of honor in the reptile community, earned through research, preparation, and a deep appreciation for their wild nature.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Is a Bosguana the same as an Amazon Tree Boa?
A: In almost all cases, yes. “Bosguana” is a pet trade term that typically refers to colorful morphs of the Amazon or Garden Tree Boa (Corallus hortulanus). There can be some regional naming confusion, but care and biology are identical.
Q2: Can a Suriname Boa ever become tame?
A: “Tame” is the wrong word. Some individuals may become tolerant of very careful, infrequent handling conducted with utmost patience. However, their high-strung, defensive nature is inherent. You should always expect a defensive strike as a possibility and never trust them not to bite.
Q3: What is the minimum tank size for one?
A: The minimum should be a front-opening enclosure that is tall, not long. For an adult, aim for dimensions at least 24″ D x 24″ W x 36″ H. More height is always beneficial.
Q4: Why is my Bosguana always striking at the glass?
A: This is likely a defensive response to movement outside the enclosure (like people walking by) or a reflection it perceives as a threat. Try reducing external movement near the tank, using a background on three sides, and ensuring the interior is cluttered with branches and hides to make the snake feel more secure.
Q5: Are they venomous?
A: No. They are non-venomous constrictors. However, their bite can be painful and prone to bleeding due to their long, sharp teeth designed for gripping birds in flight. A bite should be cleaned thoroughly to prevent infection.
